Monday, February 4, 2013

Concentration Dress #1: 1830s Periwinkle

     My first dress I am tackling for my AP Art Studio concentration (six pieces total!) is an early 1830s day dress. I'm using a lovely periwinkle medium-weight cotton and a white cotton for the lining. Here are some early inspiration photos:

via Behind the Tapestry blog

via Annie Leibovitz for Vogue

via pinterest

     And an early concept sketch on mine:

     As for a pattern, since I'm not the most skilled at draping yet, I'm using Truly Victorian's Early 1830s dress pattern with Gigot sleeves for daytime wear. The bodice is heavily altered, 1) because I didn't want a gathered bertha/neckline thing and 2) because I am petite, which entails a lot of alterations in fitting and 3) I wanted a laced back instead of a hook and eye closure.
     I traced my corsetted size from the bodice pattern on large tracing paper, sewed the mock-up, and pinned on the back and spent a while adjusting where the darts would be and fixing the shoulders and waist height to my shrimpy proportions. Mum was great help with pinning me into it. Once we had the right alterations, I ripped all the seams out and used the flat mock-up pieces as my new pattern to cut my fashion fabric and lining from. I sewed the fashion fabric pieces together, but got delayed sewing the lining, because I lost one of the pieces in my monstrously messy bedroom. I had plenty lining left, so I re-cut it later.
     Then, I set to stitching boning channels to the seam allowances inside the bodice. Still finishing that up:

Channels will be on every seam.

     That's as far as I've got on the bodice, but I picked out a lovely buckle and olive-grey velvet ribbon for the belt. Belts were a thing back then, right? I like it, anyhow:

The thread is some upholstery thread I'll be using for the cartridge pleats on the skirt.
And some new embroidery things. I'm trying my luck at hankerchief embroidery...
     That's all I got for now. Will post about the sleeves and skirt later. Till then...

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