Wednesday, May 13, 2015

1910s Corset Complete!

     Playing some catch-up here. I finished my art school finals and only now have some time to sit down and blog. Here's my experience with my 1910s corset.
     I've realized that I have SO much to learn about corsetry, but I still had a fun time with this corset.
Progress pics:

My busk put in.

Sewing the bone channels. Even though I basted the
channels, I missed parts of the edges as I machine-
sewed them. Grr...

Boning channels and waist tape in. I now wish
I had used petersham or grosgrain ribbon
instead of twill tape for the waist. 

Putting in some eyelets.

Still eyelet-ting.

     Once I finished the eyelets, I shoved some steel bones in their casings (some were too short, but oh well) and stitched the ends up to prevent them from sliding to the bottom of the casings. I tried it on to make sure things were going okay. 

     Not too bad for my second corset EVER. Next, I bound the top and bottom edges in bias tape. 

That's a lot of pins...

     Then, I put some antique lace around the top edge and assembled the garters. Once those were stitched on, it was time to lace the corset up over some pizza and watching Firefly with Boyfriend. 

Yep. I put it on my legs.
Actually, a great way to lace corsets when they're not on a body.

Yeah. It's awful lighting, but I was just so
excited to have it done.
     There are definitely many things I wish I had done better/differently and mistakes made. Yet, I am very proud of myself. 
     In terms of historical accuracy, the bust is cut a little high, at the mid-bust, which is verging on not a historically-accurate shape. Most corsets of the this time period were either underbust or almost underbust, providing very little breast support. There are a few original 1910s corsets out there, like the one below, that have an uncommonly high top edge. 

     This mid-bust height is a much earlier style, as seen in Victorian corsets. I am assuming that the wearer of this extant corset decided to adopt the long-line hips, but wanted actual bust support, so decided to ignore the fashion for the slightly droopy bust shape left over from the "pigeon breast" fad of the 1900s. 
That's just my guess for the styling of this corset. 
     So, inspired by the stylings of this corset, I opted for a slightly raised and better-supported breast, even though I did sacrifice the desired silhouette of the period.  
     Later, I found this 1910s-era photo of a lady and felt that her bust looked a bit more supported and angular than those I had seen in other photographs of the time. What do you think? Sorta? Maybe her posture is just super good.

     Anyways, I'm already thinking of changes for my next 1910s corset. First, more waist reduction and roomier hips. Then, still a supported bust, but I more rounded shape akin to those of the early Victorian era when corsets were just intended to support the breasts in a natural position. And now I'm rambling...

Over and out.