Saturday, March 21, 2015

1910s Corset Progress

     In the little time I have for personal projects on the side of Art School, I have been working on a 1915-16ish era dress for the April Gaskell Ball challenge. Our theme this year is "Girls in White Dresses with Blue Satin Sashes" or "Our Favorite Things". You guessed it. Like The Sound of Music song.
     1910s in a new era for me, so I need the proper underwear. Hence the new corset. I know next to nothing about corsetry, so this is a big learning experience and I am bound to make several mistakes.
I started with Festive Attyre's pattern as a starting point. Jen does an amazing job explaining the construction and pattern adjustment, BTW.

The enlarged pattern.
     Then, I made adjustments so it fit my waist measurement and made the first mockup. I wanted more bust support, so I added an inch to the top edge.

Not the best fit...
     The hips were WAY too big, the bust/waist not right in multiple ways, and the whole thing too long. Back to the pattern, I took about 4" off the hips (8 total throughout the two corset halves). I added 1'' to the height of the top edge and added maybe 1" total to the bust width and mostly in the front bust gore piece. Then I made a second mockup.

The adjusted pattern.

Better, but still not right.
     It doesn't help that I didn't lace it all the way down, but the back hips are obviously too small. So, I added a couple inches only to the two back pieces in the hip. One last mockup.

Yeah, baby!

     Right on the money! I don't have much curve, but look at the way it hugs my hips and shapes them so nicely! 
     Yes, the bust is a bit high for 1910s corsets, which were mostly under bust or extremely low bust support and supplemented with separate brassieres. But for me, I see no point in a corset that gives next to no bust support and needs a bra to be worn with it. I have also seen historical examples of 1910s corsets with a slightly higher bust like mine. 

This one in particular showing higher-busted corsets
for "full-figured" women. I have a larger bust, so I feel my
figure can apply to this category.

Prior Attire's 1910s corset.

      So, now I am working in the final coutil fabric. I got it from Sew Curvy and the fabric is so finely-woven and starched, that it's like working with card stock! 

     I cannibalized my very first corset for the busk. It was a sorta-Victorian one based off Laughing Moon's pattern. It does not fit me at all anymore and never did fit just right. It has been worn to the ground and was well-loved. It makes me happy to know that it will live on in my new corset. :) Here is some documentation of it before I cut it up.

But it lives on now...

The hook side put into the new corset.

     That's as far as I am now and I hope to finish it soon so I can make the dress! I am running out of time...

1 comment:

  1. There is something very satisfying about looking at neat little top stitches.